Indoor Dining Allowed, But Many Island Restaurant Owners Say Not Yet

Restaurant owners approached the restart of indoor dining with extreme caution and a new menu of worries on Monday.

Martha’s Vineyard restaurant owners approached the restart of indoor dining with extreme caution and a new menu of worries on Monday, as they navigated a summer business landscape upended by the coronavirus.

Gov. Charlie Baker announced Friday that indoor dining could begin Monday as part two of the state’s second phase of reopening.

But the reality was not so simple. With tight restrictions on capacity, severe staffing shortages on the Island and ongoing concerns about infection risk, restaurants on the Vineyard took the news from the statehouse with a hefty pinch of salt. Some owners planned to open with severely limited capacity, but many others said they would wait.

“I’m in no rush to open indoors any time soon,” said chef Ben DeForest, who owns and operates the Red Cat Kitchen and Cardboard Box restaurants in Oak Bluffs. “This whole thing, everything, is like walking on water. It changes underneath your feet every single minute.”

Since mid-March, restaurants have had to overhaul their business models to accommodate ever-changing social distancing guidelines, forcing many to stay closed, cut staff and change their offerings. And now with the announcement that indoor dining can begin, just because restaurants can reopen, it doesn’t mean they will.

“It’s way more complicated than it sounds,” said Mary Kenworth, who owns and operates State Road restaurant in West Tisbury and Beach Road restaurant in Vineyard Haven. “I feel for everyone,” she said, speaking of her colleagues in the business.

State Road, a popular up-Island eatery, is currently offering takeout with a slightly altered menu, while Beach Road remains closed. Ms. Kenworth said Monday that a variety of factors — including capacity restrictions on indoor seating and the safety of her staff — meant that she would not be reopening for indoor dining at least until phase three, despite the fact that takeout is providing only a small fraction of the restaurant’s normal business.

“You want to be open. My heart breaks that Beach Road has to be closed,” Ms. Kenworth said. “But right now, doing takeaway from one space is the best thing we can offer.”

Although the governor did not limit capacity at restaurants to an exact percentage of occupancy, tables are required to remain six feet apart or be separated by plexiglass, and parties are limited to six or fewer guests. For many Vineyard restaurants, including State Road, that would mean hiring kitchen and service staff for dining rooms with fewer than five tables.

J.B. Blau, who owns five restaurants on Island including Sharky’s, the Copper Wok, SeaSmoke and M.V. Chowder Company, said he won’t be opening any establishments for indoor dining until at least July. Space issues, combined with the fact that his normal staff of 150 employees was down to approximately 40 or 50 workers, makes indoor dining infeasible, he said.

“If we open Sharky’s in Oak Bluffs, we might get a third of a table in there. So what do I do?” Mr. Blau said. “We’re taking a wait-and-see approach.”

Safety is a primary concern for owners and customers alike. Mr. Blau said he conducted an informal Facebook poll that found 175 of the 190 respondents weren’t yet comfortable dining indoors. Ms. Kenworth said State Road was looking at getting permits for outdoor tables, but expressed concerns for her staff with indoor service.

“I would need my staff to feel more comfortable to accommodate guests inside. They are my first priority,” she said. “And I’m not really certain about how many guests want to dine inside, even if they can.”

Other owners said reopening for indoor dining is their only option. Geoghan Coogan, whose family owns and manages The Wharf and Rockfish in Edgartown, said The Wharf would be open for dine-in service on Monday and that Rockfish would open Wednesday.

Both restaurants could max out their indoor service at approximately 50 or 60 per cent of their normal capacity under the governor’s restrictions, Mr. Coogan said. But with staff hard to find, he said service limits would be much lower. On Monday The Wharf only had one cook and one server available for lunch.

“I’ll put it this way: We’ll never recover from the last few months,” Mr. Coogan said. “We’ll never hit numbers that we usually hit to make it through the next winter. So we need more than the outdoor dining to give us even the semblance of a cushion. We have to try [indoor dining]. Otherwise we might as well close.”

But Mr. DeForest and Mr. Blau had a different view.

“It’s all these different weights. Do you keep your labor low and sales down? There’s so many different things. It’s all uncharted,” Mr. DeForest said. “I’ve tried to keep myself too safe for too long to just open up the doors.”

Ms. Kenworth said opening indoor dining service with the necessary social distancing restrictions would fundamentally alter the experience. Until the joy and intimacy of going out to eat at a restaurant can be either regained — or reimagined — she said it wasn’t worth trying to replicate it through masks, screens and social distancing.

Outdoor dining and takeout will have to suffice, for now, she said.

“I’d like to see going out to dinner, be going out to dinner again,” Ms. Kenworth said. “Mingling, and getting to see people you know, and the vibe and the spirit of that. We’re all eager for that moment. But the regulations with phase two just don’t allow us to do that yet.” 

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/22/2020 - 18:42

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Let’s Eat! Oak Bluffs

Open the doors and start serving, the demand is here and time to make up for lost revenue. If you don’t want to eat inside a restaurant simply don’t. If you won’t open, don’t expect sympathy for low revenue numbers in your gofundme campaign come January

JB oB

Did you read more than the title to this article? The economics of opening inside are questionable and staffing is impossible. Have fun with the 5 restaurants open this winter, and thanks for your inspiring support for the industry.

Jamie West

Apparently you didn't really read the article. While you and other's may want to go sit in a restaurant many don't. It is also about the safety and health of the employees of the restaurants. I commend Ben and J.B. for their position on this matter. What it all comes down to is humans are selfish and ignorant and want what they want, when they want it. For now with all of the beautiful weather, I am more than happy to support these restaurants with takeout and go with my family to the beach. We can all look forward to a time when we will be sitting in our cozy nooks of our favorite restaurants and bars, but now is not the time. Take your blinders off and think outside the box.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/22/2020 - 21:02

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Bo Saxberg Edgartown

“Lets Eat” - have you ever run a restaurant? Or worked in one? There’s more to it than your observation of “demand”.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/23/2020 - 05:51

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OB Bob Oak Bluffs

I am with let’s eat. Time to open up for people. I have worked in restaurants and know what happens on a daily basis. They still can be safe with less people dining inside. If you don’t feel safe going out, stay home. More room for us that want to go out and support our community

Old Foodie MV

Of course a restaurant could be safe with fewer diners and increased diligence on the part of the operator but the six foot separation requirement drops the number of seats at most restaurants to the point where they aren’t economically viable.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/23/2020 - 07:30

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Jim near by

There is no confusion over opening, those responsible for your health while dinning are just skeptical. Reading the responses…. sounds more like a party opinion. eating is this is not political.
Its a safety thing. I say this as I sit in Florida with 90% Republicans in my area, and the attitude is! open everything no matter what.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/23/2020 - 08:44

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Summer time West Tisbury

I agree - let’s open up and allow people to enjoy this beautiful island and community! Look at the stats everyone... it is pretty clear!

Jamie West tisbury

Are you looking at the same stats....states like Arizona and Texas and Florida just opened up nearly everything, and cases numbers are climbing high. Be patient enjoy your summer amd support through takeout. Remember going out to a restaurant is a want not a need and right now we need to respect our small little island and the decisions that our restaurant owners are making. Its selfish and ignorant to want to just open up because "you" want to go out to eat. Look at the big picture, step outside of the box and think of others. Not sure how much experience you have with the restaurant industry, but your statement would indicate not much.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/23/2020 - 10:59

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David Hyannis

Most people replying clearly did not bother reading the article which while not surprising is frustrating nonetheless.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 06/23/2020 - 18:13

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Chris Katama

If you dont wanna eat inside dont! Stop trying to paint this as something it is not. People will eat inside and people will work. If you choose not to that is your option.

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