Jeanna Shepard

Cooking for Love in All the Right Places

For better, for worse, for richer, for poorer, in sickness and in health, to love and to cherish, to make meals or reservations.

For better, for worse, for richer, for poorer, in sickness and in health, to love and to cherish, to make meals or reservations — let’s face it, sustenance responsibilities should be part of the vows. In our 36 years of marital bliss I have voluntarily cooked most of our meals. Essentially because that’s what I love to do. My wife, thank the gods of wedlock, loves to make presentations, prepare a table, wash the dishes. That’s her therapy.

We met working at the same television station. Working day in and day out involved collaboration and steps where you have no control. There’s phoning strangers, setting up interviews, going out with camera crews, writing scripts, sitting in editing rooms, lots of rushing, lots of waiting. So it’s good for the soul to come home, go into the kitchen, grab a vegetable and a knife and start slicing and dicing. Cooking leading to eating is closer to instant gratification than what I was doing the rest of the day. And let’s face it, instant gratification is seldom offered past childhood.

For me, cooking is an art not a science. I read cookbooks as if they’re novels — to get inspiration and stimulation. I don’t believe in the literalness of recipes. Baking requires precision; it’s a science. Cooking a dinner is a creative process that requires enjoyment. And this comes from confidence, which comes from experience.

My experience came from the survival instinct. It all started back in college in that hotbed of adolescence called “living off-campus.” During those years in a house of four young men it felt like the motto should have been “Grow up or throw up.”

One of the turning points occurred when a housemate concocted his version of Swedish meatballs. To be kind, they were more like Sweetish meatballs, considering he carmelized them in a paste of ketchup and grape jelly. For the adjoining salad, another housemate bought a head of cabbage, which he mistook for a head of lettuce. Interesting dinner. So memorable I threw myself into the informative pages of Irma Rombauer’s Joy of Cooking, the original “Gastronomy for Dummies.”

What truly released my inner Julia Child, however, was Julia Child herself. Six years out of college, I found myself working at WGBH, Boston’s PBS station, in an office across the hall from Herself. While hearing her rehearsing her show, I’d walk into the studio and sit at the back. As she cheerfully mastered the art of French cooking for befuddled Americans who see stoves as altars for other religions, I took notes. In short order, my skills improved. I’m convinced she’s the reason even American restaurants improved.

Julia Child was easiness personified. Her mission was to demystify the inner workings of cuisine, to show how anyone can cook. And she managed to do this with an easy manner, a demeanor that said she was one of us.

While I was learning from Julia what goes with what, she also taught me to keep a well-stocked larder. She taught me how to shop so that my pantry and refrigerator contained enough ingredients to make a meal any time I got home and didn’t want to go out again to hunt and forage. When I saw her shopping at Savenor’s, her favorite Cambridge market, a walk from her home and mine, I followed her around like a dog with opposable thumbs.

In 1980 the Family Health Cookbook came out, compiled and edited by Alice White, working for the Society for Nutrition Education. It was a bible of up-to-the-minute gospel on what was good for you. Its 250-plus pages of recipes had been assembled with scientific care, “tasted and tested to meet the highest standards for good eating and good health.” So many of them tasted and tested by yours truly, with at least three of them invented by me.

The book was hatched in Cambridge, not far from Julia’s home. For most of the time during the compiling of these items, Alice and I were also an item. This lasted for a couple of years of tasting and testing — and changing and testing again. I learned the finer points of what seasoning worked where and which played well with others. This knowledge of herbs and spices distinguishes baby boomers from previous generations when anything beyond salt and pepper was considered exotic, or at least foreign. My mother, for example, kept a tin of dry mustard she received at her wedding but I never saw her use it.

Thanks to Julia and Alice, I will always have shelves dedicated to soups, rice, pasta, canned tomatoes, flour, olive oil, vinegar, dried fruits and nuts, as well as containers of just about every spice and herb. And below there will always be baskets of potatoes, shallots, onions and garlic.

In jazz, when you’re “cooking” you’re heating up and jamming together. That’s why I see it as an art. But it can also mean to alter or falsify to show something in a better light; hence my disrespect for following directions.

Arnie Reisman and his wife, Paula Lyons, regularly appear on the weekly NPR comedy quiz show, Says You! He also writes for the Huffington Post.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 05/31/2018 - 17:42

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James Malkin Chilmark

Mr, Reisman - Despite your time with Ms. Child, you neglected her adage: "I enjoy cooking with wine, sometimes I even put it in the food..."

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/01/2018 - 08:10

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Jennifer Coor Chilmark & Cambridge

Julia has been my "go to" over the years & I will never forget when on T.V. she was lifting the roasted chicken out of the oven when it slipped to the floor. She explained in her throaty voice as she gathered it up, "no one will know and it could happen to you too". What a super star !

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/01/2018 - 09:40

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Douglas Korves AIA Always on Island

Well penned Artie,

Thank you for showing that the joy of cooking is a patient personal search.

As an architect, I find that to come home and assemble a meal, is like design and construction - use the materials and ingredients that you have available in new and creative ways each and every time you enter your kitchen.

I too had the good fortune to share a summer house with two culinary designers that were other professionals. One was my then employer and friend, the late James Terrell AIA and also an unlaureated “fashionista” named Perry Ellis.

Jim and Perry awed me that a pan was not used for frying but for sautéing, searing, locking in flavor with shallots, butter, oil, onions.

It was Perry, who said in 1976: I am weary of “The Pines” and I have heard of this place called Martha’s Island and we are going up for Labor Day Weekend and we are driving up and don’t need ferry reservations, and I rented a bungalow in “Vineyard Heaven” and you two bring the wine.

Of course we had “directions” from the Vineyard Ferry but little did we know we took the boat to Oak Bluffs.

We ended up driving around the Island lost for 2 hours but not before we bought whole milk, cream and eggs at Nip n Tuck; scones at the Scottish Bake House, 2 fruit pies at the side of the road; herbs and vegetables at that “stand” across from the bookstore in West Tisbury. We knew we were lost when we pulled into Menemsha and bought scallops, lobster and chowder at Larsen’s and Poole’s.

We got back to VH about 10:00 pm and that began a magical 4 day holiday of endless food preparation and wine.

We departed Labor Day at 3:45 and announced that we were here for the 4:00 boat and were told to go to lane 19 in back of the VW with the NY plates. By the time we left at midnight, I rented the house of Craig Whitaker in the VW for the first of four Augusts before I purchased in Edgartown.

We smoked and cooked a crown rack of venison stuffed with lamb in a mustard sauce; we stuffed and cooked a goose; we made spinach fettuccine from scratch with the richest cream, eggs, herbs and cheeses, we had all lobster at all meals weekends; we made chipoline, stuffed bluefish and sautéed striper steaks that anglers gave us the fish at Edgartown dock; we waded into Squibnocket with baggies of lemon wedges and a clam knife to sit in the shallows and eat our fill; we had candlelight dinners on the beach; and “fall down” multi-course and multi-paired dinners on the screened-in porch.

Yes Arnie, the joy of cooking, wine, friends present and past - and wearing what you prepare and eat, just like Julia.

Those were the “salad days” - until l get hungry next.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/04/2018 - 09:46

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Lorraine Edgartown

Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Someone who "gets it"..are there still plenty of us out there?

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 06/04/2018 - 19:14

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Susan Ritchay Sarasota, Fl

I always enjoyed your meals, or was it the marvelous conversation. I have saved your recipes, as well as Julia’s. Many delightful memories of my favorite chef and cook.

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