Mark Lovewell

Walk to the Sea With Me Once More

Not a lot of reason for optimism lately, but in Aquinnah there is finally something to cheer about. It’s the Philbin boardwalk.

Icebergs cracking up in Antarctica, global hacking, robo-calls, a certain U.S. President: not a lot of reason for optimism lately, but in Aquinnah there is finally something to cheer about. It’s the Philbin boardwalk.

Philbin boardwalk: a plain name like the Gay Head light. Low key. No donor’s name or product endorsement. Forget your clever High Line.

The boardwalk is 360 feet long and straight as an arrow. Graceful and floating 30 inches high. Other boardwalks get swamped by drifts of sand. This one’s above it all and meticulously designed. Instead of driving timber stakes into the fragile wetlands, there are clever butterfly pin supports bracing it, and since it’s raised, water can migrate underneath it. It’s not your standard three feet wide, but five. Wide enough for a wheelchair or for a couple to walk hand in hand. Less a schlep, more a promenade.

Most other Vineyard boardwalks are pine or cedar. Philbin is a rich brown mahogany which means it’s longer lasting, won’t splinter, will age gracefully, and like most of us, turn gray over time. The boardwalk is exquisitely sensitive to its surroundings and provides the long, diminishing perspective. While the posts are concealed underneath, there’s nothing apologetic about it. And the toe rails provide just the right touch. “Like a Japanese garden,” said Sarah Thulin. “ It fits in with its environment. It just works.”

This is not the product of any Boardwalk Empire or boardroom, but rather an army of the determined: Ms. Thulin, who chaired the Philbin Beach boardwalk committee, Adam Wilson at town hall who handled the bidding process, Jay Smalley and Frank Perez at public works. Can’t forget Todd Vanderhoop who did the brush cutting, committeemen Tom Murphy and Larry Holht, Chris Alley for the survey and design work, the engineers Schofield, Barbini and Hoehn, the selectmen and townspeople of Aquinnah who put up the $85,000, Cottle’s for — what else — lumber. And of course, there’s Steve Ewing of Aquamarine Dock Builders. “This one’s the longest straight boardwalks I’ve ever built,” Steve said. He also admitted: “At first I didn’t want the job. It was April, my busy season, but I’ve always liked doing jobs for the general public.”

Such a transcendent experience — to be 30 inches above terra not so always firma as you walk to the beach. You feel elevated. You are, for that matter. Maybe it’s because there’s this whole different perspective from a whole new angle, looking down into a habitat of wetlands. Rather than dodging poison ivy and thorny fox grapevines, you become lost in a world of beach roses and grass, clumps of heath, sedge, clethra and viburnum. You wonder what the red and purple berries would taste like, but they’re probably poisonous. So instead you take a picture of a plant with tiny fragrant creamy flowers. Thanks to the miracle of smartphones, you later identify it as a sweet pepperbush.

Of course, some beachgoers see the glass as half-empty. ”Nothing should spoil our wetlands,” one middle-aged woman complained. A few others argued they’d miss the view from the old path at the top of the hill. “It was dramatic and spectacular,” a man pointed out. A 10-year old boy said he’d miss jumping down the old dune and rolling down the sand. But they are a distinct minority and are free to trudge up the old path any time they feel nostalgic. It’s still open.

Everybody else in Aquinnah seems ecstatic. Superlatives abound. “It’s easier on the knees, easier on the environment, the greatest thing since sliced bread, this series of sliced boards,” declared Mache Seibel.

“I was astonished!” said Julia Kempelman, whose dog Gwen, a five-year old Scottish border collie, expressed her enthusiasm by diving off the boardwalk into the wetlands below.

Taking it all in, another woman exclaimed: “I am thrilled and proud of everyone who made this happen.” Another woman said, “Terrific!” Another described it as “a pathway to heaven.”

Ian Campbell, age eight, was struck by “the good texture of the wood.”

Mike, age 10, said: “It’s so much shorter!”

Taylor and Sarah Ives stood midway on the boardwalk. “I have a special feeling toward the old path. Taylor proposed to me on it,” Sarah said with a grin, pointing in its direction. “And I’m pregnant now, on this new path.”

Mitzi Pratt noted the boardwalk “completely changes the approach to the beach. Instead of trudging up the sand dune and being rewarded by that first glimpse of the ocean and the happy descent to it, this way is not all about the beach. The struggle through burning sand can make the water all the more delicious but the pace on smooth wood boards over marsh grasses can be meditative and serene. And we have a choice!”

Some, however, were losing their choices. Over the years, as the old path grew steeper and steeper, it had been growing harder, even impossible, for older beachgoers, to make the climb. Many had to give up entirely. “It was just too strenuous,” a woman in her 70s acknowledged. Another woman carrying a baby, gazed out at a cloudless sky and said: “My parents couldn’t make it and now they can.”

Then there is Allen Polsby. Since 1955, he had walked to Philbin Beach, but in 2014 he developed back trouble and was unable to negotiate the path. “The sand was soft and deep and we thought we’re not going to be able to keep on doing this,” his wife Gail remarked. Three Philbinless years went by. “For years, it was our favorite place to walk and when I heard about the new boardwalk, I said, you know I think he can make it with his walker,” she added.

So they decided to brave the new boardwalk. Allen found the toe railing on each side of the walk reassuring. “Psychologically you feel protected by them,” he explained. “You can’t go over the edge.”Finally, they made it to Philbin Beach. I never thought I’d return,”Allen said. “It was awesome.”

Allen is not alone. Last Sunday, on a perfect beach day, a man who looked to be in his eighties, paused halfway up the boardwalk. “I never thought I’d live to see the day,” he said. “To see Philbin again.”

Ted Sutton lives in Newton and Aquinnah.

Comments

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 07/22/2017 - 00:39

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Becky Campbell Santa Monica, CA

We are back in CA and missing Philbin already. Thank you for this excellent piece on the new route to the beach. I love that it allows access for folks who feared they could no longer make the trek - which may be me in a few more decades :)

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 03:11

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Carla Jaeger Yountville, CA

Fine article. Boardwalk sounds wonderful! I am wanting to return to the Vineyard to get the whole experience. Glad there is the choice of old path or new boardwalk, which is inclusive.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 03:16

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L. Campbell Fairfield, Connecticut

Looking forward to seeing this beautiful addition and sharing in the memories that were made and new ones to come.. great article..

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 07:59

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Jessica Roddy chilmark

A lot of the old path is actually not on town-owned land. The dune is completely on private land. So really that is not an option....

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 08:17

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Linda Young Carlisle, Pa

I've been privileged to visit this area just once in my life and the description of the area is so beautifully written; you've taken me there again--if only through word. I've gotta come back now to walk the planks in reality and paint this vision onto canvas. Thank you

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 08:48

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Island Purist

You want a boardwalk? Go to the Jersey Shore or Coney Island. Boardwalk is not the Vineyard way. While you're at it, why don't you set up a Dunkin Donuts there and a hot dog stand? Human logic is the killer of magic.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 07/25/2017 - 09:59

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Island Purist

yes it looks like a lovely wooden path. I don't dispute that point. But Mother Nature does not exist to convenience the whims of the human. Rather, we must have reverence for her sanctitude, mighty rhythms and ways. A dune too steep for all to climb is one way Mother Nature protects her sanctuary we humans are so privileged to visit. Making it easy to access Philbin is so typical of Homo Insapient's sense of entitlement. If you get too old to climb the hill, you get too old to climb the hill. Humans love to manipulate circumstances to fulfill their own short sighted urges while thinking nothing of defiling the natural landscape. I WANT a dune that's hard to climb! I WANT the little huff and puff, to feel my leg muscles working and toes digging into the sand as I trudge on up.
I WANT to feel the anticipation of the wonder that awaits when I reach the top,the sense of accomplishment having made it..AHHH....when my eyes and heart behold the magic when that briney breeze and shining sea all opens up!

When it comes to Mother Nature, a graceful acceptance and at times respectful tending is always preferable to Human so-called improvements. As tasteful as it is, on principle I am not in favor of this boardwalk.
For me it ruins the pristine character of the beach path which has always offered a timeless sense of sanctuary from for as long as I can remember. Philbin Beach and Aquinnah are the ultimate soul of the island. Don't mess with it.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 07/26/2017 - 00:31

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MWG Edgartown

As steadfast as I am in letting nature be nature I must wonder at the reasoning behind the construction of this elevated walkway. The route that the old path followed on did indeed cross through private land, the town owned parcel moated entirely through sensitive wetlands. So were we to stick by our guns and let only those who were able go to the sands of Philbin, we may have found in future years a trail of mud, both beach and parking lot bound, and a marsh with a trench of human traffic.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 08/03/2017 - 23:53

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Lacy Bassett Hyanniis

For those of us who have aged a bit and health has messed things up, health isn't always a given. . So the wonder of hope as a walker clicks a long on beautiful mahogany to the breath taking joy of bluff and beauty is a blessing for those of us who were able to return to a life we thought was gone forever. I hope ill health does not grab hold of the purist ,for after all, aren't you just human?

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