Sparse ferry traffic, sleepy harbors, quiet streets and an unprecedented pandemic: the Vineyard experienced its slowest Memorial Day in recent memory.
Sparse ferry traffic, sleepy harbors, quiet streets and an unprecedented pandemic: the Vineyard experienced its slowest Memorial Day in recent memory this past weekend, as the traditional start of summer signaled an unusual season ahead.
Preliminary Steamship Authority numbers released Tuesday showed ferry traffic was down in all categories on the Vineyard route compared with the 2019 holiday weekend, particularly among passengers and automobile traffic.
From Thursday May 21 to Monday May 25 passenger traffic was down from 51,715 riders in 2019 to 17,690 in 2020, a 65.8 per cent decrease. Car traffic fell from 7,082 automobiles last year to 4,706 in 2020, a 33.5 per cent decrease.
“We’ve certainly had these figures before, but probably not for 40 years,” SSA spokesman Sean Driscoll told the Gazette Tuesday. “And we’ve never seen that much of a year-to-year decrease in the history of the steamship.”
“There’s no precedent for this,” he said.
The 2019 Memorial Day weekend numbers include traffic from the Oak Bluffs terminal, which has been closed for repairs during the initial part of the 2020 season. In an email, Mr. Driscoll said he did not think the closure of the pier had measurably impacted the 2020 weekend numbers.
“I find it extremely unlikely the terminal being unavailable has a material effect on this year’s traffic figures given Covid-19,” Mr. Driscoll wrote.
He said further in a phone conversation that torrential rainstorms on Saturday might have caused a slight dip in traffic numbers, but that Saturday was normally the lowest traveled day of the Memorial Day weekend, with most travel occurring on the Thursday and Friday before the weekend, and the Sunday and Monday at the end.
“The rain probably did hurt a little bit,” Mr. Driscoll said. “But especially this year, if you knew you were going, you already knew you were going. There weren’t going to be a lot of impulse travelers.”
The SSA has seen a dramatic plummet in traffic since the start of the pandemic, with the most measurable and precipitous decline occurring in the last two weeks of March and first week of April. But as the weather has warmed, traffic too has slowly heated up, with overall ferry figures climbing to about 50 per cent of their normal numbers in the second week of May.
Passenger traffic is at the lowest ebb, with declines in around the 70 per cent range.
For Island businesses, Memorial Day weekend was largely on-par with the same trends.
The Edgartown and Oak Bluffs harbors, normally bustling for Memorial Day, both saw huge declines in boater traffic. Edgartown harbor master Charlie Blair said the harbor normally moors between 50 and 70 boats for the weekend. This year, there were eight.
“No one comes over here to stay on a boat and eat a ham sandwich from home,” Mr. Blair said. “They come over to walk around town, go to the stores, eat and drink at the bars, and none of that was happening.”
In Oak Bluffs, the harbor is now allowing only one boat per slip to maintain distancing. But even with the limited space, there were still empty slots all weekend — the normal ring of boats familiar on a busy Memorial Day dwindled to a dotted U-shape.
Fuel attendant Evan Hartford, working his seventh year in the harbor, described the boats as a “spattering.”
“This past weekend was very, very quiet,” he said. “It really is usually our first big weekend. It was not like that this year.”
Businesses along the harbor, already many weeks into a stay-at-home order and hopeful that the holiday weekend would bring an increase in sales, felt the impacts of the quiet boat traffic as well. Coop De Ville, a colorful bar and eatery right on the harbor, is normally packed for Memorial Day, with attendants delivering food and drinks to customers that overflow into the harbor boats. But this year, assistant manager Delano Green said that while a few regular customers came for take-out, overall sales were slow and that the harbor atmosphere was “dead,” especially for Memorial Day.
The lack of business on a holiday weekend loomed ominously for Mr. Green, who expressed worries about the impact the pandemic could have on the rest of the summer.
“It’s normally crazier than this. It was not as crazy as it should have been,” he said. “If it continues with this for the whole summer, I am honestly not sure what is going to happen.”
On Circuit avenue the weekend was up and down. Benito’s barber shop, a hallmark of the avenue, opened for the first time since March on Monday, as the first phase of the governor’s gradual reopening plan allowed barber shops and hair salons to open on Memorial Day.
Business was booming.
“This whole week we’re booked,” said Tracy Briscoe, who runs the shop. “The next available appointment is in June.”
Along with the additional mask, gloves and temperature checks for all customers, the biggest difference on Monday was that Benito’s couldn’t take walk-ins, the foundation of their business for the past 20 years.
“On Monday, when we opened, there was a gentleman waiting at the door who thought he was going to be able to be a walk-in,” Ms. Briscoe said. “That’s been a little tough, but it’s worked out.”
Donna Kruszewski, part owner and manager of the iconic Ben and Bill’s ice cream shop, said despite the weekend being slower than normal, cash sales at the shop’s Vineyard location actually outpaced the Falmouth franchise.
She noted a small amount of tourist traffic on the street, and said the clothing retailer Captain’s Club across the venue was successful with its curbside business. But she added that the ratio of tourists to regular customers was much lower than Memorial Day’s past.
“People were happy we were open because they’ve been waiting a time for ice cream,” Ms. Kruszewski. “A lot of people said, oh, Ben and Bill’s being open brings a little normalcy into our lives.”
For most Islanders, however, any sense of normalcy on Memorial Day was exactly that — a sense. And no amount of bunting or backyard barbecues could portend anything other than the quiet summer that likely loomed.
“It already is a strange May. And it’s going to be a strange June,” Mr. Blair said. “We’ll see if there’s any light in the tunnel.”

Comments
I’ll make an observation:
VH VHI’ll make an observation: there’s no way I’m going as a walk on passenger again based on the horrid behavior of passengers. Last weekend less than half of the passengers were wearing masks inside the vessel. They came on the boat and lowered them, then headed up the stairs huffing and puffing.
It’s simply not worth the risk to be a passenger on vessels with such behavior. Tourists should stay behind unless they want to risk their health. We’re all in this together, but these passengers really made me question our humanity. Wear a mask inside folks. It’s that freaking simple.
This seems more like a
Mark EdgartownThis seems more like a pejorative statement rather than an observation. Details aside, if you feel unsafe please stay sheltered inside your home.
if the hotels and inns aren't
mike Edgartownif the hotels and inns aren't open yet, and home rentals are not allowed, how on earth can you have any hope of business this summer.
this goes for all of Massachusetts..........
GREAT shot, Jeanna Shepard!
Rita EdgartownGREAT shot, Jeanna Shepard!
I am amazed the island has
Dan Albright FalmouthI am amazed the island has managed to remain in a state of denial and fantasy thinking as long as it has, people are simply not going to come when even the most routine recreational activity requires draconian health precautions that suck all the joy out. Time will tell, but by October odds are excellent there will be a very different business landscape, with anyone who was counting on robust revenues to stay in business being swept away
Draconian? I guess you don’t
BD VHDraconian? I guess you don’t understand that we’re in the middle of a 100 year Pandemic! People can’t come to the Vineyard and think that it’s business as usual. It’s not just about fun people have to be safe and feel safe. Otherwise you can open up all you want people won’t come out and businesses will close anyway.
The sad truth is that MV
JT MVThe sad truth is that MV Summer 2020 is going to get crushed this year because MV happens to be in the most cautious state in the land: MA. And while it is great that that is the case from a health standpoint, Memorial Day Weekend was a forboding look at things to come.
When we are on the back end of this, MA will go down as the state that did things most optimally from a health and welfare standpoint, but that will also come at a cost to places like MV.
What is basically going to happen this year is no rentals, and few day-trippers. It is going to be only homeowners and locals. And for that I say godspeed MV.
There will be no return to
Marie EdgartownThere will be no return to normal for Islanders and their businesses until people like VH stop demanding that tourists stay away. This is a tourist economy, period.
How do you propose tourists
Kelce OBHow do you propose tourists get here safely? I know my relatives have no desire to walk on or off an SSA ferry to visit me this summer.
SSA should without a doubt
JT MVSSA should without a doubt already have a mandatory mask rule until further notice. Can't even fathom what is holding that up? It should be considered the same as walking into a store.
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